You’ve been planning for your wedding day for a long time now. Give your love story a fairy tale ending with couture bridal wear tips from celebrated designers and make the day truly yours
Every girl has her own version of wedding fantasy; and has been planning for the big day for months, years and even decades. While theme and location are top priorities, wedding outfits figure at the top of this list. In terms of styles, the Indian bride looks best in a traditional lehenga or saree. A well-fitted, intricately embroidered blouse with a flowy tule dupatta looks great and exudes a delicate feel. The colours which are in this season are soft classic hues such as vintage pink, champagne gold and ivory along with traditional red and green.
Tina Tahiliani Parikh, director of Ensemble, highlights that the trends this season are long jackets with sharara bottom and lehengas and concept sarees such as drape sarees and dhoti sarees, which accentuate the Indian body frame beautifully. “The colour palette seen across bridal collections ranges from red, orange, gold and peach to pastels, rich blues and emeralds. Outfits with floral motifs, appliqués, gota patti and dori embroidery are in vogue this season. We see fabrics like organza to raw silk and net to textured velvet being used in some cases. We also continue to see influences of sheer in the silhouettes this season.”
Commenting on the couture bridal wear this season, Heena Malhotra of Chhabra 555 says, “Velvets are perfect for a luxurious wedding ensemble. Additionally, brides could opt for silk and raw silks, but refrain from using georgettes as it cannot hold heavy embroidery work. In terms of colours, I find blood red to be a clear favourite among brides. In fact, eight out of 10 brides desire a blood red outfit. Of course, these can be teamed up with colours like molten corals, turmeric yellows, bright fuchsias, powder blues, baby pinks, golden beiges, sea greens and royal blues. For the lehenga opt for ones that has many gher; these can be teamed up with jackets, heavy blouses and stylish sleeves.”
According to the designer duo Shyamal & Bhumika the trend this season is a sort of global influence into the otherwise ornate and rich indian outfits. “Corsets, crop tops with lehengas, shoulder less blouses, stitched draped saris, maxis—all these have discreetly made space into a brides wardrobe,” they say.
Bridal wear must be traditional, wellfitted on the upper bodice and flare at the bottoms. Therefore, it is detrimental that brides select fabrics, colours and silhouettes that compliment their structure. You could experiment with tops having backless or deep backs and pair them with long dupattas to add elegance and grace. “I suggest handwoven tussar fabrics and hand aari embroidery on it with silk blouses and a hand-woven or hand embroidered look,” says designer Purvi Doshi.
Nikasha Tawadey adds that interplay of precious embroidery and archived romantic prints including the jasmine bud, cherry blossoms and Siuli makes for the perfect D-Day ensemble.
From designer lehengas, stylish sarees to Indo-western gowns; the classic bridal collection is timeless at many retail stores in the town. Kalki, the outlet in Santacruz, assembles trousseau for the modern day bride. The extensive use of gold in combination with bright colours, intricate embroideries and embellishments on rich fabrics, is definitely trending in.
When it comes to the Indian bride, Rajasthan, with its wealth of fabrics and craftsmanship, is an inspiration to several designers. Designer brand Study By Janak bridal collection is inspired by the forts and palaces of Rajasthan. Crafted in silks and brocades with a touch of modern materials like georgette and chiffons, the colour palette varies from neutrals to bright jewel tones. Couture designer Surbhi Shah’s creations too are inspired by the hues and vivid colours of Rajasthan like fuchsia, yellow, orange and uses traditional forms of Rajasthani textile work like marori work, danka work, pure silver gota work, gota application work, zardozi, and coral work, among others. Anita Dongre’s bridal couture collection India Modern is an ode to traditional Rajasthani crafts matched with modern design and contemporary silhouettes. Her muse, The Jaipur Bride,
brings out the vivacity and charm of the city with flowy bridal lehengas reinterpreted with a modern twist, subtle detailing and layering juxtaposed with intricate gota patti, doori and hand embroidery on rich fabrics.
“I have used rich fabrics like raw silk, traditional Indian techniques and fabrics like bandhini, leheriya, gota patti, zardozi and dori. The cuts are structured to be more contemporary, where now you will see fitted crop tops paired with lehengas, tailored jackets matched with embroidered slim pants in fresh neutrals to rich jewel tones like peacock blue, coral and red,” Anita Dongre says.
When you talk about traditional weaves and fabrics, Sabyasachi Mukherjee is a name to reckon with. He is always associated with ethnicity, tradition and reviving traditional Bengali weaves in the fashion industry.
To cater to the modern Indian bride, most designers are opting for fabrics and silhouettes that appeal to contemporary sartorial sensibilities, while detailed embroidery is reminiscent of Indian craftsmanship. Speaking about this aspect, Manish Malhotra says, “My collection, Portraits, draws inspiration from the Indian neo-bride. I have always been fascinated by the ethereal touch of Kashmiri zari work and this collection sees intricate embroidery by some of the region’s master craftsmen.” The zari coupled with elaborate ivory thread-work on rich beige and grape-wine silks to emerald and ruby red velvet and tule will indeed make you a cynosure of all eyes.
These days many couples are opting for destination weddings; be it at the mahals in Rajasthan or on a breezy Goa beach. Therefore, the choice of outfit has to be in tandem with the theme as well the weather conditions of the wedding. Hyderabad-based designer, Anushree Reddy says, “With destination wedding being the main focus these days, bridal wear has to be light yet dressy. My latest bridal collection is inspired from floral vintage prints and fused with traditional Hyderabadi zardozi. So, it’s basically a marriage of both these beautiful old-world elements.”
Designer duo Sneh and Samta Goenka say, “Opt for colours like dark pink, red, bottle green and royal blue in brocade and georgette. Draped outfits, besides traditional Indian suits, with stunning mirror work make the perfect ensemble for such weddings.” Ensemble Design Studio has introduced the glass lehenga this season, a design which is influenced by stain glass windows of the Islamic era. and is light in weight. The use of organza for the translucent effect with raw silk adds to the richness and is perfect for a destination weddings.
You may either opt for going traditional or neo-modern, but ensure that comfort is of prime importance; after all, it’s your Day!